The End of the Borrowed Boyfriend Shirt Era

Once considered a simple wardrobe staple, women's shirts inspired by classic men's button-ups are now taking center stage in fashion. Rather than relying on borrowed styles from a partner's closet, designers are reimagining shirting with elevated construction, thoughtful tailoring, and oversized silhouettes created specifically for women's bodies.

Olivia Villanti, founder of Chava Studio in Mexico City, believes the traditional borrowed shirt has its limitations. “You can steal a man’s shirt, but it has limitations. The sleeves are too long, the fit is off—it’s going to look like you borrowed a man’s shirt,” she explained. Today, fashion brands are moving beyond the long-popular “boyfriend shirt” concept, combining the relaxed appeal of menswear with proportions, cuts, and details designed exclusively for women.

Luxury fashion houses have embraced the evolution of shirting. For the Fall season, Givenchy under Sarah Burton introduced dramatic cuffs, sculptural collars, and inventive interpretations of the classic button-up. Fendi experimented with collarless designs and contrasting details, while Schiaparelli paired crisp shirts with structured vests. Balenciaga presented button-ups with drawstring hems that created voluminous silhouettes, and The Row showcased minimalist shirts featuring priest-inspired high collars, demonstrating the versatility of the wardrobe staple.

Craftsmanship and Women's Fit Take Center Stage

The transformation of women's shirting is also about eliminating the need for the so-called “boyfriend shirt” altogether. Designers are focusing on garments that retain the relaxed ease of oversized tailoring while offering proportions that naturally complement women's bodies. Melissa Ventosa Martin of Old Stone Trade noted that traditional men's shirts often require alterations because “the sleeves are too long, the shoulder width is wrong,” prompting many women to seek pieces created specifically for them.

Brands including With Nothing Underneath, founded by Pip Durell, have refined oversized shirts by adjusting shoulder placement, button positioning, and overall construction to create flattering silhouettes. Collaborations with ateliers such as 100Hands further emphasize craftsmanship and attention to detail, reflecting the growing appreciation for quality tailoring and the principles of savoir-faire. This movement aligns closely with the ongoing influence of quiet luxury, where fabric selection, construction, and longevity are valued over fleeting trends.

Designers also point to the timeless versatility of a well-made shirt. TWP founder Trish Wescoat Pound described it as “a piece women can build an entire wardrobe around—dress it up, dress it down, wear it for years.” Meanwhile, Lizzie Owens of 6397 believes today's fashion landscape favors familiarity, explaining, “We’re in an age of nostalgia and familiarity. People are grabbing onto things that are tried and true, especially when the future feels uncertain.” As a result, the classic women's shirt is no longer simply borrowed from menswear—it has firmly established itself as a refined, enduring wardrobe essential in its own right.